Sarajevo

Where to stay

Most hostels cluster inside or just outside Baščaršija, the old Ottoman quarter, which puts you within a short walk of the Sebilj fountain, Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque, and the cheapest ćevapi in the city. A handful of budget options sit along the main tram corridor heading west toward Marijin Dvor, a quieter base with easy access to the Eternal Flame and the National Museum.

Getting around

• Bravadžiluk, a short alley in Baščaršija, has several no-frills ćevapi spots where a full portion with somun bread runs well under 5 convertible marks. Eat here instead of the tourist-facing restaurants one block over.
• The cable car to Trebević mountain was restored after decades out of service and gets you above the city in minutes without booking a tour. The views back over the valley are worth the trip, and the ride itself is inexpensive.
• Sarajevo uses the convertible mark (BAM), pegged to the euro at roughly 1.96 BAM. Withdraw marks from an ATM rather than exchanging at kiosks near the old bazaar, where rates are consistently worse.

When to go

Hostels are cheapest from November through early March, outside a short spike around the new year. Prices climb steadily from June and hit their highest point in July and August, when the Sarajevo Film Festival in mid-August fills beds across the city.