Chefchaouen

Where to stay

Most budget travelers base themselves in the lower medina, on the lanes between Bab el-Ain and Plaza Uta el-Hammam. The streets climbing north toward Ras el-Ma are a five-minute walk from the main square and tend to have quieter guesthouses at slightly lower prices.

Getting around

• Grand taxis from Tetouan run about 30 dirhams per seat and are faster and cheaper than buying a through-ticket from Fes or Tangier. In Chefchaouen, the CTM bus station drops you outside the walls, so budget a few dirhams more for a petit taxi to Bab el-Ain.
• The weekly market outside the medina walls near Bab el-Ain runs on Mondays and Thursdays. Buy groceries and snacks there at local prices rather than from the tourist-facing shops along Rue Targhi.
• The medina has fewer than 20 hostels total. Book at least two weeks out for any summer weekend, and expect most places to require a two-night minimum during peak months.

When to go

December through February is the emptiest and cheapest stretch. July and August bring the most visitors, with beds booking out days in advance.